The City Of Seven Hills: A Weekend In Lisbon
Welcome to Lisbon, Portugal; the old port town whose terracotta-tiled rooftops still dovetail with charming cobblestone streets and the iconic yellow 28 tram. So, what to eat and sip? Naturally, you’ll start with the trifecta: fresh seafood, pastéis de nata (the classic Portuguese pastry) and Vinho Verde wine; hailing from the far north Minho province. Below, our favorite eating, drinking and resting spots in the capital “City of Lights.”
FRESH SEAFOOD, TASCAS AND EGG TARTS
Start inside the fluorescent-lit, old-school eatery Cervejaria Ramiro. Buzzy and boisterous, it remains a no-frills, family-run place for noshing on the town’s best seafood –complete with viewable lobster tanks, plenty of shrimp and ice-cold ale pints. For breakfast, drop by the legendary Pasteis de Belem (est. 1837), the historic cafe that birthed the sweet custard tart and served on classic blue-and-white plates.
Next, stop by an informal tasca (pub-like eatery) for the simple pleasures. Strewn with drawings made by musician Norberto Lobo, Cardosa do Estrela de Ouro’s cozy-and-narrow dining room serves tasty meat croquettes, cod cakes (on Tuesdays) and a delightful leite creme (aka Portuguese crème brûlée). Nearby, the pint-sized A Taberna da Rua das Flores offers André Magalhães inventive mackerel tart, while the two-Michelin starred Belcanto serves a sea bass with seaweed (sorry, no reservations) in a handsome, wood-paneled room. For ambitious vegan fare, Arkhe serves a plant-based menu (think BBQ leek with romesco sauce; brisket on toast) by a Porteguese-Brazilian chef. Gather your friends and hang with the locals at O Velho Eurico featuring an unfussy array of mainstays like polvo (octopus) and Borrego e castanhas (lamb and chestnuts). Meanwhile, inside the Swiss Ambassador’s former residence near Principe Real, is the hip-and-happening Decadente whose “unapologetically Portuguese” cuisine features a fresh take on the "churrasco" alongside modern cocktails.
ORGANIC WINES, NIGHTCLUBS AND SPEAKEASIES
A relaxed stop for natural and organic wines from Austria, Italy and Greece, the boho-flared Café Tati also doubles as a jazz cafe. Don’t miss the steak tataki with chimichurri sauce. Meanwhile, David Lynch-like lighting reigns at the moody-and-polished Cinco Lounge, with a creative cocktail lineup including a refreshing pineapple martini. Nearby, the colorful, speakeasy-style Monkey Mash presents its tropical-fringed decor with a wicked rum-and-cachaca ‘Dope Punch’. In the same space, and just behind a wall panel, another hidden bar called the Red Frog is, as its name suggests, a moody, red-hued, candle-lit room spinning a swanky jazz, swing and funk soundtrack.
Once a gritty spot for strip clubs and prostitutes, Rua Nova now houses popular nightlife spots. Dancing your thing? Lux boogies to the break of dawn thanks to house music followed by a rooftop sunrise. Meanwhile, the Palacio do Grilo houses Gala Cricri, a former 18th-century manor turned nightclub whose series of ornate rooms projects laser lights and disco classics (try the Portuguese apéritif –a white port and tonic with an orange twist). Of course, native 19th-century fado music is free of charge – and most of the melodic sounds can be heard spilling onto the streets from bars and restaurants (you can also drop by Fado & Wine and Clube de Fado).
REST YOUR HEAD
Set in an 18th-century building in the Old Quarter of Lisbon, Santa Clara 1728 is a minimal-meets- modern, six-room hotel with interiors by B&B Italia designer, Antonio Citterio. Around the corner you’ll find the Santa Engracia church and Lisbon’s best flea market (Tuesday and Saturdays). Once a fancy palace in the boho Bairro Alto, The Lumiares, weaves a modern experience with panoramic views and an airy rooftop restaurant that overlooks the Tagus River. Last but not least, in the heart of the city, drop your bags at The One Palácio da Anunciada, which has a spa, wine bar and the on-site eatery focusing on local market cuisine.
