Summer Passport: A Few Days in Italy’s Lake Como

Lake Como, the wishbone-shaped, 10,000-plus-year-old lake nestled in Northern Italy’s Lombardi region once hosted several early visitors – the Romans, the Hungs, the French and the Spanish. Of course much later, it became a sparkling playground for Hollywood royalty and jetsetters. These days, travelers come to savor the splendor of the district's indigenous citrus gardens, grand Renaissance architecture and picturesque Italian Alps. Just below our favorite spots to get lost for a few hours or enjoy a meal and a drink. Because with summer’s arrival, we’ll most likely be sipping sunset cocktails on a boat – a breezy, hassle-free way to travel in style while taking in Lake Como’s glistening surroundings.

GET LOST IN THE GARDENS

Photo from Villa Carlotta

Leisure strolls set inside Como’s fabled gardens are requisite. Start at Villa Carlotta, a can’t-miss 3-story pastel-pink estate once owned by silk merchants and doubling as a museum with intricate neoclassical frescos and sculptural works (pieces by Canova, Hayez, and Thorvaldsen) and a botanical garden with a rhododendron forest and handsome arched citrus tree tunnels. 

Alternatively, the Villa del Balbianello is set on a lakeside peninsula and offers prime water views while Villa Monastero in Varenna features lush gardens; and of course Bellagio's famed Villa Serbelloni Gardens is always a treat as is the blossoming, kaleidoscopic Villa Melzi Garden complete with a tranquil Japanese pond.

THE LOCAL BOUNTY (with cocktails too)

Photo from Feel Restaurant

You’ll find plenty of elevated cuisine in town. In Como’s historic center and set in an old stable with exposed wood beams and stone walls, Feel offers chef Federico Beretta’s creative dishes – eel with lemon sauce, leek roots and parsnip and a salad using a local Alps-plucked medley of flowering greens.

A generous wine list meanwhile highlights local and small producers. While the 16th-century palace of Villa d’Este is known for its stunning Baroque gardens, the fashionable Veranda is a white-linen tablecloth affair with bow-tied waiters carrying silver platters that only add to the spectacular water views.

Photo from Veranda Restaurante

Across the lake in Cernobbio, the Michelin-starred Restaurant Materia is a minimalist black and white shrine showcasing chef Davide Caranchini’s signature dishes; think linguine with butter, salty lake shad and a divine dessert nodding to a Milanese risotto (there’s also a vegan menu).

Photo from Restaurant Materia

For a special occasion, Il Gatto Nero pairs its wines and fresh handmade pastas in a palm-fringed lounge or outside on a stone terrace with panoramic lake views. Meanwhile, the venerable Momi Restaurant pairs its sparkling views with simple Italian fare; local catches, freshly-rolled pasta and palate-cleansing desserts such as a basil gelato. 

Photo from Da Luciano Bottega e Caffe

For an afternoon pick-me-up, Da Luciano Bottega e Caffe serves espresso drinks alongside charcuterie plates and freshly baked sweets. And just off Tremezzina’s main stretch, score a patio table at the easygoing Cantina Follie where a proper wine and cheese spread awaits.

DROP YOUR BAGS

In the 1932 film Grand Hotel, Hollywood actress Greta Garbo called the namesake Grand Hotel Tremezzo  “that sunny, happy place.” Today, you’ll find that contemporary glamor still reigns; bold reds with pops of bright orange and an entire floor dedicated to maximalist rooftop suites. Later, sip your Komos on the lush wraparound terrace.

Photo from Grand Hotel Tremezzo

Once the home of a 19th-century soprano, Villa Roccabruna is beloved for its floating Herzog & de Meuron-designed infinity pool, private jetty and handsome speedboat. The main house features a grand marble staircase and large picture windows, while the minimalist L’Aria restaurant offers contemporary Italian dishes. 

Photo from Il Sereno

Meanwhile, the 30-room Il Sereno Hotel features clean, minimalist architecture – a meld of wood, steel and stone – catering to a younger crowd and includes a custom Cantiere Ernesto Riva motorboat running from the hotel’s dock. Afterwards, a multi-course dinner awaits inside Il Sereno Al Lago. 

A handsome private villa dating back to the late 1700s, Passalacqua Hotel is a grand 12-room affair and with manicured grounds dotted with olive groves, roses and magnolias. To eat, chef Viviana Varese offers simple Italian cooking with local ingredients plucked directly from the property. Gather around the La Double J pool bar pavilion for light Italian plates, followed by sunbathing and refreshing Komos cocktails. Wake up and repeat.