Little Black Book: Meredith Erickson’s Guide to Eat and Drink in Milan

Over the last several years, the cosmopolitan city of Milan – once a culinary afterthought to Rome and Puglia – has experienced somewhat of a gastronomic renaissance thanks to a wave of classic institutions, low-key bistros, and new design-savvy bars. And while beloved dishes like cassoeula, osso bucco, and risotto alla Milanese still line the menus, you’ll also find plenty of modern takes on the cuisine. For an insider’s perspective, we caught up with seasoned local Meredith Erickson, the Alpine Cooking author, who just last year co-founded Doladira – a chemical-free, low-in-sugar, made-in-Italy rhubarb aperitivo that also happens to be in the Komos family. Below, Erickson shares her favorite restaurants and bars in Milano.

Trippa Milano With its warmly-lit orange walls, patterned floors and wooden tables dotted with paper placemats, this Porta Romana neighborhood eatery pairs chef Diego Rossi’s seasonal menu with a unique offal focus (tripe, kidneys and sweetbreads galore) alongside vegetable options in a cool new-meets-old-school venue. Address: Via Giorgio Vasari, 1, 20135 Milano MI, Italy

Mandarin Oriental Milan Kitted out with lush greenery and 70s-inspired geometrically tiled walls, slip into the hotel’s hidden Mandarin Garden for a light lunch and come early evening, enjoy aperitivi, creative cocktails and caviar service. Meanwhile, Seta, a two-star Michelin restaurant helmed by chef Antonio Guida serves a trio of tasting menus. Upstairs, a sprawl of 104 rooms have been properly appointed by the Italian architect and designer Antonio Citterio. Both Doladira and Komos are on the bar, so you know you’ll be drinking well. Address: Via Andegari, 9, 20121 Milano MI, Italy

Casa Cipriani Classic Italian elegance and old-world Milanese design dovetail with mid-century touches inside this highly-glamorous venue – think striped wallpaper, wooden wainscoting, plush royal blue sofas, and black-and-white photographs recalling Italian cinema’s golden era. Known for its many global outposts, the namesake restaurant is known for its freshly-made pasta – sample the simple rigatoni alla gricia (made with guanciale cured pork jowl and Pecorino cheese) and don’t miss a rite of passage rooftop bellini. Address: Via Palestro, 24, 20121 Milano MI, Italy

Bar Paradiso This sparse and intimately hip wine spot pours plenty of Nebbiolo and Barbera d’Alba, alongside fresh cheese offerings; ricotta di bufala with peperone crusco and a dousing of extra virgin olive oil will do the trick. Of course, you won’t want to miss the venue’s signature crescia sfogliata (a flakey fragrant flatbread dating back to medieval times). To drink: might we suggest a classic Doladira spritz. Address: Via Tiraboschi 4 Milano MI, Italy

Terroir Milano A small, curated gourmet grocery for drinks and nibbles alongside specialty coffees and natural wines. You can also opt for a to-go bottle of Doladira – whose deep pink color hails from rhubarb and black carrots and naturally makes a perfect picnic companion. “We created the drink we always craved but could never find,” said Meredith Erickson, who added, “a lot of aperitivi are too sweet, too sugar-forward, and don’t have enough nuance.” The staff is a dream, and can answer any questions you might have bottarga, the neighborhood, or their favorite wines. Address: Via Macedonio Melloni, 33, 20129 Milano MI, Italy

Si Ma Townhouse Situated in a narrow townhouse on the ground floor, you’ll find a bar and communal dining table while the second floor is known for lounging and conversation. Headlining the menu are tasty snacks such as sardine bruschetta and a creamy burrata served over thinly sliced pears with chili oil; best enjoyed with a glass of bubbles or washed down with a Doladira negroni. Address: Corso di Porta Vigentina, 12, 20122 Milano MI, Italy

Bar Nico Simply follow the red-neon-lit glow into this sparsely decorated wine bar where a curated natural wine list features global selections (mainly from Italy and France). The founders were inspired by their travels around Paris and Barcelona; and the minimalist space leans on classic and modern elements: wooden bistro tables and a steel concrete countertop. As for the cuisine, simple dishes like canned mussels in escabeche sauce and raw sausages from Italy’s Piedmont region – and happily arranged in a smiley face shape. Address: Via Cesare Saldini, 2, 20133 Milano MI, Italy (no reservations).

Rovello 18 Since the mid-1950s, this popular family-run institution has served homey upscale osteria fare – seasonal antipasto (think sauteed artichokes and grilled peppers tonnati) and handmade pasta with clams and bottarga. It also doubles as a serious wine destination considering there are over 800 bottles to choose from. Address: Via Tivoli, 2, 20121 Milano MI, Italy

Gloria On a sleepy street in Navigli that once housed an old trattoria, the ever-popular Gloria serves modernized spins on traditional Italian fare with seasonal ingredients. Sample the millefoglie con tartare di branzino or pasta with chickpeas and smoked chestnuts. The glam space is certainly a feast on the eyes – decidedly maximalist and dressed in purple and yellows with dazzling Murano glass lamps that recall an opulent 1960s villa. Address: Corso Vercelli, n. 18, 20145 Milano MI, Italy

Cantina Isola A historic neighborhood institution. This handsome, timber-lined Chinatown wine store was founded in 1896 and features an extensive selection of both Italian and global varieties. You can also enjoy pours by the glass paired with tasty nibbles. Intimate, friendly and reasonably-priced, you’ll find rotating events, including a locally-loved poetry night on Tuesday evenings. Address: Via Paolo Sarpi, 30, 20154 Milano MI, Italy

Via Stampa A laid-back 50-seat Italian trattoria with a warm-carved timber bar and wooden tables. The simple, unfussy menu focuses on small plates – such as anchovies in olive oil, fried artichokes with Parmesan fondue and mint, risotto alla Milanese, and fresh al-dente pasta topped with butter and white truffle shavings. Address: Via Stampa, 8, 20123 Milan Italy

Trattoria del Ciumbia In Brera, explore hearty Milanese classics at this fashionable spot where dishes like beef ragu simmered in red wine and served over polenta headline the menu. Throwback-meets-futuristic interiors are coupled with kaleidoscopic floor tiles and straw chairs and are partially inspired by bohemian trattorias of the 1960s. Address: Via Fiori Chiari, 32, 20121 Milano MI, Italy

Little Black Book: Meredith Erickson’s Guide to Eat and Drink in Milan

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