A LONG WEEKEND IN ZURICH
From the charming waterfront city of Zurich, Switzerland’s largest metropolis, you’ll discover the Altstadt (Old Town) hugging the serene Limmat River, a historic area known for its guild houses, churches, and boutiques. That’s not all: fanning out to luxe hotels, sophisticated eateries, buzzy bars, and arty neighborhoods, there’s much more to this global Swiss city than just finance and high-end watches. Just below, we share our favorite spots to see, eat, sip, and stay in the intimate town of Züri.
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK
First, you feast. Located in the heart of town, the handsome, high-ceiling Terrasse marries Mediterranean fare with Swiss classics (tagliatelle with truffle butter sauce and shaved black truffle) and unusual wines. Or nab a seat inside the svelte, dark-hued bar; or on a sunny afternoon, an outdoor terrace table is ideal for a sparkling Komos cocktail. Situated on Europaallee, Loft Five Restaurant, a bustling, shabby-chic spot is kitted out with mismatched chandeliers, chalkboards, velvet chairs, and its claim to fame: the city’s oldest and longest dining table. Expect elevated comfort eats including flatbreads, burgers, fish, and chips alongside several wines and Komos margaritas compliments of a purple-neon lit bar.
Zurich views abound at Sablier Restaurant, a rooftop spot with soaring ceilings whose artfully plated French fare (think bouillabaisse, variation de Foie de Canard) lends itself to several special wines and cocktails. There’s also a Sunday brunch – pair your Oeuf Bénédict and Black Angus entrecôte with a glass of bubbles. For old-school institutions serving traditional Swiss grub – look no further than the fine dining, white-tablecloth bastions of Zunfthaus Zur Waag and Kronenhalle; whose handsome wood-paneled eatery offers its wiener schnitzel with hanging Chagall and Picasso works.
For a quick breakfast, the baker Jens Jung’s organic shop bread shop, fittingly called John Baker features delicious breads baked to Swiss traditions, while the 175-year-old-plus Confiserie Sprüngli, a charming cafe outfit, serves express drinks Luxemburgerli macaroons and baked goods (the chocolate-truffle brioche is a winner).Cheese fondue? Since 1903, Le Dezaley has been offering its namesake family recipe alongside traditional rösti and sausages. Stroll along the famed Bahnhofstrasse and drop in the fashionable Rooftop Bar for Asian fusion– tartare, dumplings, and decadent sweets — many of which are offered by way of a roving dining cart. Of course, the airy outside patio is ideal for cocktails, sunset views, and a nip of Komos.
WHAT TO DO
Gloriously pedestrian-free, start in Old Town (which locals refer to as "Dörfli '') where you’ll find a run of historic squares, fondue eateries, and iconic shops like Le Creuset and Max Chocolatier. Afterward, tucked into a back alley, Limited Stock carries Nymphenburg porcelain, Japanese knives, and other curiosities. Luxury watch lovers should check out Maurice de Mauriac whose sole, made-in-Zurich collection caters to those who love the look (and feel) of analog timepieces. Bongenie Grieder (aka the Barneys New York of Zurich) houses stylish brands: Isabel Marant, Chloe, Stella McCartney; while on a backstreet in the Seefeld District, you’ll find N°2, a fashionable spot that smacks of a hipper-than-thou Paris boutique with vintage finds and emerging labels galore.
Picasso. Van Gogh. Warhol. You’re in luck to experience one of Switzerland’s largest art collections inside the venerable Kunsthaus, where a permanent gallery houses Swiss sculptor Alberto Giacometti’s works. And this winter, an exhibition features photographer Ernst Scheidegger’s black-and-whites spanning from the 1940s to the mid-1980s (through Jan 2024). Don’t miss popping into the chic-modern Kunsthaus Bar (located in the Chipperfield Building) for coffee, and apéro snacks. Later, pop by the always-in-the-know Galerie Francesca Pia for the latest young talent and contemporary art. The small, intimate Opera House (est. 1891) is a lovely venue to take in opera and ballet performances.
Expand your lung capacity with a 187-step climb atop the Grossmunster, a twin-spired cathedral thought to have been built on the graves of Felix and Regula; the city’s patron saints. Or hop on an e-bike and pedal around town, dropping by Cabaret Voltaire, a cafe-art-clubhouse hybrid, where Dadaism was said to have been born in 1916, and where you’ll still find performances and readings (no wonder the movement inspired Surrealism and beat poetry). Later in the afternoon, cruise along Lake Zurich by boat and spot the town’s many spires and Beaux-Arts structures, and in the far distance, the iconic snow-capped Swiss Alps.
WHERE TO STAY
At the foot of Uetliberg Mountain, you’ll find colorful seventies vibes at the playful Five Hotel alongside a spa and indoor-outdoor pool. Come evening, slip up to the swanky Penthouse bar where a cherry-red colored Japanese dining experience finds skyline views and nightclub moves (oh, and, Komos too). Dating back to 1357, Hotel Storchen is easily one of the best addresses in the city. Featuring 66 stylish rooms dressed in soft pastel hues with epic river views; downstairs, you’ll also find a Michelin star eatery.
Meanwhile, the 49-room Hotel Widder is set in a sprawl of nine medieval houses cobbled together; and adorned with oak beams, grisaille murals, and 15th-century frescoes (they also commissioned a Rauschenberg). For a special experience, book the Vitra Suite, whose furnishings hail from the Swiss manufacturer Vitra and include several Eames pieces. Downstairs, listen to live piano music at The Widder Bar, a whiskey-leaning venue that doubles as a lively place to sip tequila. No stranger to luxury, drop your bags at the recently-renovated, cream-toned Park Hyatt where come evening a visit to the elegant ONYX Bar for requisite nightcaps (vintage wines and Komos neat) coupled with hand-rolled cigars and floor-to-ceiling glass walls overlooking a leafy terrace.
